West Loop eateries change concepts to draw in customers, keep up

Restaurants reborn on Randolph

01/11/2012 10:00 PM

By BEN MEYERSON
Editor

6 Comments - Add Your Comment


Grange Hall Burger Bar, 844 W. Randolph St.
J. GEIL/Photo Editor



As 2011 came to a close, West Loop came out as one of the clearest winners in Chicago’s restaurant scene.

In a poll of the city’s food writers on the blog Eater Chicago, 10 of 17 declared the West Loop the city’s best dining neighborhood.

Alongside critics from the Sun-Times, Time Out Chicago and Daily Candy, Chicago magazine’s Jeff Ruby summed up the neighborhood’s revival: “I assumed that with the demise of all those Kleiner-y places, the neighborhood would look like one of those sad, closed amusement parks with all the weeds and rusted equipment,” Ruby wrote. “Didn’t happen. A whole new generation populates that stretch and does it with as much action as the first generation did.”

The neighborhood’s renewed success is breeding turnover. At least one of those “Kleiner-y places” is being taken over by a new restaurant: In Red Light’s former space, Stephanie Izard is opening Little Goat, a diner-like sister restaurant to her perpetually busy shop across the street. Graham Elliot is opening a bistro on Randolph. Something’s cooking in the former Marche building, though it’s not yet clear what.

With all the hustle and bustle and alterations around, other restaurants in the neighborhood are changing course to take advantage of the area’s regained popularity.

One Sixtyblue, the West Loop restaurant at 1400 W. Randolph St. co-owned by Michael Jordan, closed its doors Saturday after 14 years. It won’t stay closed for long though.

Jordan and his co-owners in the restaurant, Cornerstone Restaurant Group, said in a statement that with Randolph Street reemerging as a major dining hub, it was time for a new concept, and they’re planning to reopen in the spring under a new name.

“They just felt the time was right with the local culinary scene on Randolph changing,” said Deanna Dugo, Cornerstone’s spokeswoman.

In an emailed statement, Cornerstone CEO David Zadikoff thanked his customers.

“One Sixtyblue had an amazing run, and moving on is bittersweet,” Zadikoff said. “We are looking forward to our new chapter and are excited to share our plans for the year ahead.”

Further east, near the heart of restaurant row, owners Angela and Chris Lee shuttered their Michelin-recognized Veerasway, at 844 W. Randolph, this summer because it simply wasn’t getting enough business. People just weren’t willing to try the restaurant’s take on Indian food, Angela Lee said.

“We don’t like to almost focus on money, but the truth of the matter is the restaurant business is a business,” Lee said. “If you can’t fill seats on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, then you’ve failed, and you can’t make the cash flow work.”

But she still had a renovated space with a fully functional kitchen and was determined to make something work. She already ran two other popular restaurants on the Randolph strip — de cero and Sushi Wabi — so she knew she could make something work.

“I was like, ‘I’ve gotta do something with this space that’s been completely rehabbed, that I put $450,000 into,’” Lee said. “I’ve gotta make my money back. What’s something that’s truly me that people can eat on a regular basis?”

The answer, she quickly realized, was burgers and pies. Thus, Grange Hall Burger Bar was born.

For her, giving up the space or selling it was never an option. She’d already done all the hard work to get the space up and running, after all.

“When you walk into a space and the hood’s already in, and the basement’s already in, it’s perfect,” she said. “If I could find that space on Randolph Street, I’d grab it in a second. Most people have to find that empty shell that doesn’t have any of that stuff. I already had that, so for me, why walk away?”



6 Comments - Add Your Comment




By Eater Up from West Loop
Posted: 01/30/2012 7:16 AM

I was at Grange Hall this weekend and it was packed full of families and neighborhood folks. A great vibe and great burgers. Nice to have a local friendly spot in the middle of the Randolph Street hype. Enjoyed it.



By Ina from West loop
Posted: 01/14/2012 9:07 AM

When I opened INA's on Randolph Street 11 years ago, I knew the value of the neighborhood so I bought the building AND parking lot, anticipating the demographic changes, parking gridlock and horrific valet and garage fees everywhere. WELCOME everyone....I've been waiting for you!



By WestLooper from West Loop
Posted: 01/12/2012 10:26 PM

I tried Veerasway once and it was ok. Never went back. Jaipur is a keeper. Try it if you like Indian food.



By Mike from Westside
Posted: 01/12/2012 9:37 PM

The West Loop is an amazing neighborhood to watch transform. I'd always been a fan favorite of the South Loop, but I'm happy I chose to buy on the Westside, outside of the West Loop. The neighborhood is becoming very bohemic with a great mix of diverese residents and families. You'll see kids running about, lot's of different stores, restaurants, music venues, galleries, sports venues and so much more. We're even getting a new EL stop! This is going to be a booming and unique part of Chicago!



By brian from South Loop
Posted: 01/12/2012 4:53 PM

The Mendezes (formerly at Carnivale) recently opened up Vera in the West Loop. Publican Fine Meats is opening across the street from the Publican in February and Curtis Duffy (formerly at Avenues) is also opening a new restaurant in the West Loop. Veerasway lost its executive chef so it was due for some sort of change.



By David from West Loop
Posted: 01/12/2012 9:47 AM

It's really too bad Veerasway closed. I find Grange Hall to be a mediocre. News came out yesterday that Dodo on Fulton will be changing concepts (and some ownership). It will now be La Sirena Clandestina full-time (there was a pop-up La Sirena Clandestina in Dodo over the summer apparently) and the concept will be "Latin Local".