When Leopold hit town earlier this year, Chicago Avenue got what seems like the city’s gazillionth gastropub. With so many great go-to gastropubs already in town — Longman & Eagle, the Publican and The Gage come to mind — it took me a few months to muster up the enthusiasm to check out their new Belgian cousin.

The neon green cross sign still hangs outside — a remnant from a former tenant, the bar Pharmacy — but the inside is all new. Dark wood tables with upholstered, riveted chairs are alternated with lounge areas in the sparingly decorated space. A small kitchen lights up the end of the narrow, tunnel-like dining room. Although all of the tables were filled on the Saturday night I was there, the bar and lounge areas remained empty, adding to my feeling that this place leans more towards refined gastro than rowdy pub.

Our large group was seated in a semi-private room in the back with curtains separating it from the main dining area. As we perused the menu, our server encouraged us to share, although she admitted it was more because the small kitchen would need to send out food as prepared than because the portions necessitated sharing. But we obliged because everyone wanted a taste of everything, anyway.

We started with the poutine de merguez ($11) and offset its innate heaviness with a glass of the crisp, slightly sweet Leifmans, a Belgium beer. The poutine’s thick fries were ladled with a lamb gravy that was dotted with chunks of lamb and gave off a hint of rosemary on the finish. Brunkow cheese curds — brought in from our neighbors to the north — were melted in here and there.

The Mixed Greens ($7) were light and flavorful with d’Anjou pears and a champagne vinaigrette while the braised beet salad ($11) was overpowered by an especially strong, Stilton-esque bleu cheese.

The menu features several items from the neighborhood including a pair of cured sausages from Butcher and Larder ($16) that were perhaps outshone by the flavorful bed of sauerkraut they were perched atop. Rounding out the plate was a pretzel from Red Hen, served warm with a crisp outside.

My favorite was the braised short ribs ($19) for the slather of rich sauce with a touch of sweetness that perfectly paired with the tender, fatty meat. The table favorite was the Alaskan halibut ($21) with an unfussy preparation that let the fish shine.

Considering the richness of the menu, moderate portion sizes went a long way. And despite the abundance of meat — the menu also features rabbit, scallops, veal and mussels — the kitchen accommodated our vegetarians. An order of the smoked rabbit ($19), minus the rabbit, plus double the mustard spaetzle with fennel, definitely satisfied.

With a stomach full of meat and beer, I had no room left for dessert. I’ll just consider that another reason why I need to go back to Leopold now that it has been added to my list of go-to gastropubs.