South Loop's Tribute restaurant to open Thursday

New restaurant lost two chefs before its debut

07/06/2011 3:00 PM

By Ben Meyerson
Editor

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After a tumultuous beginning, upscale South Loop restaurant Tribute is scheduled to open Thursday, July 7, on the first floor of the Essex Inn at 800 S. Michigan Ave.

The restaurant is opening in the former Savoy space with a familiar concept: American comfort food with a twist, at a price that won’t break the bank. They’ll feature twists like patty melts with shallot marmalade and shitake mushrooms, strip steak with bacon ketchup, and house made pasta with Wagyu brisket.

The price points aren’t too high, though. That’s because they’re locally sourcing many of their ingredients, something that general manager Simon Lamb said helps them keep their prices down as well as earning a green restaurant designation.

A restaurant veteran who spent many years with KDK Restaurants running places like Gioco, Red Light and Opera, this is Lamb’s first independent venture, and they’re looking to make it affordable and accessible for the neighborhood, as well as the Essex Inn’s guests.

“All of us are old enough now that we’re in this for fun — not to get rich,” Lamb said. “The Essex is a two-star hotel, and they’re happy being a two-star hotel.”

The restaurant’s décor is unique and enchanting, and it’s clear that KDK parter Jerry Kleiner’s eclectic taste in furniture rubbed off on Lamb a bit (two pieces from Red Light have snuck into Tribute).

But what’s most awe-inspiring about the whole thing is the three massive lamps that dominate the dining room. Made by Near West-based Salvage One, they’re are made out of wood from reclaimed wine barrels — with copper-like shades that upon closer inspection, are revealed to be 35 millimeter film from the original Disney animated version of Alice in Wonderland.

The restaurant had an unusual amount of turnover and tragedy in its kitchen staff in the past year. First, its founding chef Paul Wildermuth — with whom Lamb came up with the idea for the restaurant — died of a massive heart attack just before they signed the lease at the Essex. Then Brandon Baltzley, the promising young chef who was hired to replace Wildermuth, relapsed into drug and alcohol addiction and committed himself to rehab — a story well-documented by a profile in the Chicago Tribune.

“He was amazing, amazingly talented,” Lamb said. “But I can’t say that we didn’t see there might be an issue.”

Today, the restaurant’s chef is Lawrence Letrero, a Kendall College grad who worked under Baltzley before the relapse.

Lamb said the restaurant wishes Baltzley all the best, and they’re confident that Letrero will carry Tribute well going forward.

“Lawrence likes the high-tech toys,” Lamb said with a grin.


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